Christmas Stockings

NOTE: New Date!
Tuesday, November 17, 2009
7:30 at the Greentree Church
We are making Christmas Stockings!!

Materials needed (your choice)

Keep Sake:

• (1) 15 by 20 inch square for the front (one fat quarter)
  
• (1) 15 by 20 inch square for the back (one fat quarter)
  
• (2) 15 by 20 inch squares for the lining (two fat quarters)
  
• (2) 15 by 20 inch squares of batting (your preference, not required especially if you are using felt)
• thread to match
• (1) 9 by 11 inch square for the cuff and loop
• any embellishments you want (bells, pom-poms, felt, etc.)

Elf Boot, Bare Foot, Fancy Boot: (they could just cut of the twirl at the end of the elf boot and it would be a normal stocking)

• (1) 20 by 24 inch square for the front
• (1) 20 by 24 inch square for the back (or 2/3 yard for front and back)
  
• (2) 20 by 24 inch squares for the lining (or 2/3 yard for lining)
  
• (2) 20 by 24 inch squares of batting (your preference, not required especially if you are using felt)
• thread to match
• (1) 3 by 10 inch square for loop
• any embellishments you want (bells, pom-poms, felt, etc.)

link it to your blog

instructions for a blog button
1 save this picture to your computer.
2 click "customize" at the top of your blog
3 click "add a gadget"
4 choose picture
5 click on "browse" and find where you saved the picture to your computer
6 put http://sewingsagapgh.blogspot.com/ in the "link" box
7 click "save"

Welcome...

...to the new sewing blog.
This blog will keep you updated on all the upcoming sewing nights.
We will also have past sewing projects as well as pictures and instructions.
Check the blog often to see what is going on and so you never miss out on projects. We want anyone and everyone to know they are welcome and we don't want missed communication via emails.
If you have ideas on what you want to sew or special projects you have done and want to teach, please let us know!
We want to know your ideas!!!

Table Runner by Libby J.

Libby's great idea for an easy project! Materials Needed:

• 1/2 yard center piece
  
• 3/4 yard coordinating trim
• 1 5/8 yard back piece
• matching thread
  

Instructions:

1. Cut Fabric to the following dimensions:

• Center piece: 43 x 13 in.
• Coordinating "Trim": 2 strips: 43 x 4.5 in. 2 strips: 22 x 4.5 in.
• Back piece: 52 x 31 in.

2. Pin center piece to the two strips measuring 43 x 4.5. Sew right sides together with 1/2 in. seam allowance. Press seams with both fabrics going toward the darker fabric.

3. Repeat step 2 with the two strips measuring 22 x 4.5.

4. Pin front and back right sides together. Sew around outside edge leaving a six inch opening.

5. Turn right side out. Press outside edge flat.

6. Top stitch around edge.

7. Voila!! So easy!! :)

Nicole G.'s Tutorial on Reversible Patch-Work Table Runner

Reversible Patch-Work Table Runner




Tutorial
• Instructions are for a table runner that is 14 ½” by 73” and has a ¼” seam allowance.

• Be specific when cutting but don’t fret over these specific measurements when you are sewing. This table runner is pretty hard to mess up and very easy to alter! In the instructions, use the word “ABOUT” with this in mind.

Material:
Front: Cut (scraps of) fabric into 35 strips of 2 ½” by 16” for the front.
• I’m serious about scraps. I had left over strips of fabric from making a patch-work quilt. There are 15 different kinds of fabric on my table runner.
Lining: Batting of your desired thickness cut to 14 ¼” by 76 ½”.
Back: Cut the fabric you chose for the back to 18” by 76 ½” inches and the fabric you chose for the thin middle strip on the back to 4” by 75” in dimensions.
Instructions:
Strips-
1. As you can see from the table runner I tried, the strips of scraps are pieced together. I cut some of my strips into halves and switched them around and cut some of the strips in thirds and fourths and switched them around. Some of them are even and some of them are (purposely) not even. Then, I sewed everything together to make 35 different strips of fabric. The point is to end up with 35 strips of scraps that are all the same length and width. What each strip looks like is up to you and your creativity.
2. Remember that when you sew two half together you lose a ½” in seams. When you sew 3 thirds together you will lose 1” in seams. And when you sew 4 fourths together you will lose 1 ½” in seams. That is why I had you cut the strips 1 ½” longer than 14 ½”; to give you room to sew the patches together. So if you decide to do the patches, when all the strips are sewn together you will have a pretty rough edge. Cut the rough edges to about 14 ½”.
3. You don’t even have to do patches. You could just have 35 strips of fabric that are not altered. Then you would need to cut that extra 1 ½” off (that I gave you for seams) of one side to make the table runner measurements line up.
4. Make sure to iron the seams open when you are done making your patch-work so the table runner doesn’t have lumps and bumps everywhere.
Front-
5. Place the 35 strips of fabric on the table and arrange the colors, patches and strips according to how you want them arranged.
6. Start sewing the strips of fabric together hot dog style (sewing long sides together). When all the strips are sewn together and you have cut the rough edges even, it should be about 14 ½” by 70”.
7. Iron the seams open on the wrong side of the front material.
Back-
8. Iron ¼” under on both of the long sides of the thin middle strip for the back of the table runner.
9. Pin the thin middle strip onto the center of the back material. There should be about 8” on each side of the thin middle strip and sew right next to the ironed edge (the long sides) leaving the top and bottom of the thin middle strip open. Cut any excess fabric on the top and bottom of the thin middle strip.
10. Iron ¼” under on all 4 sides of the back fabric.

Layering-
11. Place the back material with the sewn on middle strip, wrong side up on the table.
12. Then center the lining on the back material. There should be about 1 ½” of back fabric on each side of the lining and the top and bottom should be the same measurements.
13. Place the front material (strips sewn together) right side up on top of the lining and centered at the top and bottom (Lining and Strips should both be 14 ½” wide.)
14. Pin, Pin, Pin!
Finally-
15. Turn the long sides of the back material over on top of the front material to create a 1 ½” border around the strips. Pin and sew right next to the ironed edge on the long sides all the way up and down the sides even at the top and bottom where there is just lining.
16. Turn the top and bottom sides of the back material and lining over the top and bottom of the front material to create another 1 ½” border. Pin and sew next to the ironed edge from side to side.
17. Iron the table runner one more time and whah-lah! You are done!
Appendix-
• You can make the length of the table runner longer (based on your table) by adding more strips of fabric to the front material and cutting your back and thin middle strip material longer (based on your table). You can also make the table runner as wide as you want by cutting the strips of fabric on the front of the table runner longer and your back material wider.
• You can also create whatever patch-work or size of strips you want for the front design as long as it measures 14 ½” wide by 70” long.

Appliqué

Thanks to Keri for giving us tips on how to applique:

Materials needed:

• Something to applique onto (onesies, shirts, bags, etc)
• Fabric for the applique
  
• Applique pattern
• fusible interfacing
• embroidery floss
  

Instructions:

1. Prewash both the fabric that will be used for your appliqué and the object that you are appliquéing. Don’t wash the fusible web (WonderUnder).

• I recommend using a lightweight cotton fabric for your appliqué (knits are okay too).
• Objects to be appliquéd can be anything that will withstand a fair amount of heat from an iron (e.g. polycotton/cotton clothing items, muslin bags for party favors, quilt tops, table cloths/runners, etc.)

2. Prep work for appliqué

Single appliqué shape

• Find a shape you like.
• I will be bringing a flower, butterfly, apple, tie, and elephant (all sized for a baby onesie).
• Places to search: Microsoft clipart, Etsy.com, Google images, etc.
• You can cut a shape from fabric with a bold pattern

Etsy examples:

• Use a program like Word or Photoshop to scale the image to the size you would like.
• Print it out in grayscale.
• Then cut it out. Use a crafting knife for those tricky tight spots.

Layered appliqué

• Same as above except cut separate pieces for ears, eyes, etc.

Etsty example:

Monogram

• Download a free font from any number of websites. Make sure the font is easy to cut out and preferably fat.
• Move the file to your fonts folder on your computer
• Select your (C:) drive
• Select the folder titled ‘Windows’
• Select the folder titled ‘Font s’
• Copy the downloaded file to this folder
• The file will automatically be available in Word for use
• Enlarge to the size you would like and cut it out. Use a crafting knife for those tricky tight spots.
• Fonts I like that would be easy to use:

3. Preparing your applique:

• Trace your applique pattern onto the fusible interfacing.
• Remove one side of paper from the fusible interfacing and iron onto wrong side of applique fabric.
• Now cut out the shape that you traced.
• Remove other side of paper from fusible interfacing (reverse side should be your fabric).
• Place interfacing side down onto the object you're applying your applique and iron on applique.
  
• Stitch around applique by hand with embroidery floss (click here to see how) or using a machine.

Diaper/Wipes Bag

Gina is the genius on this project!

Materials:

• 8 3/4 X 24.5” lining
• 9 X 24.5” exterior fabric
• 8 3/4 X 24.5” thin batting (1/4 in. thick)
• 2” velcro (non-sticky)
• coordinating thread
• 1.5 yards coordinating ribbon

Instructions:

1. Sew Velcro (soft side) centered 1 1/4” from top edge on right side of lining fabric. Sew around all edges of velcro as close as possible.

2-On right side of exterior fabric, mark a line with ruler 1 1/2” in on 3 sides (leaving one short side unmarked) MAKE SURE TO SQUARE OFF THE SIDE!

3-Pin ribbon on line and sew on.

4. Stack the fabric: main fabric right side up with ribboned edge on top; lining right side down with velcro on top and lined up on right edge of exterior fabric, then batting centered on lining.

5. Pin right side and sew using a 1/4” seam allowance.

6. Pin left side, lining up the left edge of lining and exterior. Exterior fabric will not lay flat. Sew using 1/4” seam allowance.

7. Tuck and pin the excess exterior fabric on short sides evenly. Sew straight across short side with velcro using 1/4” seam allowance. On short side opposite the velcro sew across leaving a 2.5” gap in the middle. This is where you’ll pull the fabric through to turn it right side out.

8. If you have any excess batting, cut the edge of the batting as close to the seam as possible without cutting your fabric or the stitching. This will help get rid of some of the bulk when you’re top stitching later.

9. Trim your corners at a 45 degree angle, being careful not to cut stitches.

10. Turn right side out, making sure to press corners out.

11. Iron the edges of your case centering your lining on the exterior fabric. Lining should be slightly smaller than exterior fabric

12. Fold the edges of your opening inward and pin it in place so that the edges match up.

13. Top stitch all the way across the side with the opening-sew very close to the edge.

14. Face the case lining side up with top stitched edge at the bottom. Starting from the top, measure 3 3/4” and fold the bottom up to the 3 3/4” mark. Match up your side edges and pin top edge in place.

15. Fold over flap and mark where Velcro hits. Un-pin and sew Velcro (rough side) in place. Re-pin up to 3 3/4” mark and make sure Velcro lines up.

16. Starting at the bottom left corner top stitch (close to the edge), backstitching over “pocket” for added security) on all 3 sides. Don’t stitch over the bottom fold.

17. After you’ve top stitched, fold your flap down and iron it in place.

Burp Cloths

Our first sewing night! These burp cloths are so useful and easy to make:

Materials needed:

• 3-ply cloth diapers
• 19 1/2" x 6 1/2" of cute fabric- cotton and flannel are both great fabrics to use.
• coordinating thread

Instructions:
1. Wash cloth diapers and fabric before sewing. (Both shrink at different rates.)
2. Iron 1/4" under on all sides of the fabric.
3. Pin wrong side of fabric to burp cloth.
4. Sew all four sides of the fabric on to burp cloth, sewing close to the edge.